Thursday 12 April 2012

Siem Reap: The Temples of Angkor


I don't know where to begin this post, there's so much to say and so little that can be said with words. The Angkorian temples at Siem Reap, the most famous of which being Angkor Wat, are something which one really must experience for oneself to have any understanding of their impression. I spent 3 days exploring them and they really are stunning. I'd heard before going that if you think you'll get 'templed out' you won't. Well I think that depends how much you like old crumbly temples but it certainly won't happen as soon as you'd expect. There are so many differences in the size, shape, style, decoration and ambience of all the temples that the variety provides for almost endless interest.
Face of the Bayon


I started at the Bayon, one of the most impressive sites with it's huge carved faces looking out protectively over the lands. A massive jigsaw puzzle, the Bayons huge stone bricks lay in rows on the surrounding grass. The structure itself towers above me, exuding power and as we climb it's terraces the many all-seeing faces carved into the towers seem even more imposing. With many intricate carvings and bass-reliefs the Bayon occupies my curiosity for quite some time.
The Baphuon




The Baphuon is another favourable site and although almost as large and imposing as the Bayon, it's not as intricately decorated. It does provide a surprise in the form of a giant reclining Buddha hidden in the curves of the back wall.
I sneak past some slumbering caretakers around the Kleang and Prah Pithu, this must be the napping area!

Banteay Srei is possibly the most beautifully embellished temple of Angkor. The carvings are so intricate and delicately crafted I wonder at how long such craftsmanship took to complete. It is known as the temple of women because they say its carvings are too beautiful to have been designed by men. It's certainly very different from the other temples and worth the long ride out of town.
Ta Prom Trees
Possibly my favourite site; Ta Prom is an atmospheric gem. It is here they filmed for Angelina Jolie's tomb raider movie and I can see why. It's crumbling walls are supported by, encased in and destroyed by huge trees whose roots have chosen its stones as the place to begin their journey. Over time they have grown into monstrous plants forming a beautiful juxtaposition between nature and humanity. The overgrown jungle creates a lost world feeling amongst the crumbling ruins.
Angkor Wat is obviously the famous star of Cambodia and the reason so many tourists started to visit the country. I begin my visit before sunrise and watch as the sky turns red and the sun rises behind the profile of Angkor Wat's stunning towers, casting its shadow into the lily pond in front. I get to wander round the rest of the temple with it relatively deserted which is great for photos and the atmosphere. The experience is all the better for the serenity of the early morning. Angkor Wat is grand and majestic. It towers over the land a statement of superiority. It's mighty form is offset by intricate detailed carvings in it's interior which invoke sentiments of appreciation for its delicate beauty.
This is not an exhaustive description of the sights I visited; that would bore you, merely a selection of the highlights but nothing to compare with seeing the temples themselves. If you ever have the opportunity, take it.

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