Ninh Binh: In One Day

I was planning to stay overnight in Ninh Binh but after taking a morning bus from Hanoi I've arrived early enough to see the attractions in an afternoon, a very helpful hotelier tells me. He's keen to sell me some transport and as he suggests I tour on a mototaxi for the afternoon and then take the night bus to Hue, I think why not?
I am driven first to Tam Coc, apparently often referred to as 'Halong Bay on the rice paddies' because of it's similar stunning limestone karsts. I take a trip up the river in a small boat which the boatman seems to put all of his effort into rowing, but I suspect it's a bit of a show in an attempt to get a bigger tip! The cliffs rise high above the the little paddies of bright green shoots while a small river picturesquely meanders it's way through the midst of this stunning scenery. The river, along with us in our little wooden vessel, passes through a few dark caves, which these very waters no doubt created, with ceilings so low I have to duck to avoid stalactites appearing from the darkness. I am returned to my moto-driver empty-handed after two hours even though I've been told to buy everything from souvenirs to a drink for my boatman, even the boatman himself tried to sell me some embroidered textiles!
It's a cold, grey day and as we drive through the countryside to Hoa Lu the wind goes straight through my thin cardigan, brrr. Hoa Lu is an ancient citadel created during one of the chinese dynasties but mostly destroyed or crumbled to pieces. I explore the two remaining temple pagodas which are quite architecturally aesthetic but there's nothing very special to be seen.
Ninh Binh is well known for it's local delicacy of goat meat, having seen some mountain goats precariously perched on the cliffs of Tam Coc I am keen to try the local favourite so I order a goat meat bbq in the town. It's in a delicious marinade and is very tasty. I'm glad I only stayed for an afternoon, with the boat trip and my goat dinner I've had the best Ninh Binh has to offer.